Cub Lake Patch - Quick Quilt

Cub Lake Patch - Easy Quilt

Many times, some of the most beautiful quilts are easy to make. When we received Holly Taylor's Cub Lake Brushed Cottons in the shop, we knew we had to create a quick and easy quilt to showcase these wonderful fabrics. This quilt top can be made from start to finish in one weekend! The brushed cottons are wonderful to work with and "grab" each other when placed right sides together. The finished quilt is so soft and comfortable - this is sure to become a family favorite!

Finished Quilt - 62" x 82"
Blocks - 9" x 9" square
First Border - 3" finished
Second Border - 5" finished
Rating - Easy

Seven Rows of 5 Blocks per Row

We have designed this quilt to have maple leaf blocks in each of the four corners. The maple leaf blocks are pieced using quick piecing methods. If you do not wish to make the maple leaf blocks simply cut and make four extra four-patch blocks. This quilt was designed to showcase the Cub Lake fabrics but why stop there! You could use brushed plaids, flannels, bright kids prints and lots of other great prints.

Fabric Requirements:

A variety of ten (10) different prints - 0.30 meters of each fabric
First Border and Blocks - 1.85 meters
Second Border and Blocks - 2.0 meters
Batting - approximately - 70" x 90"
Backing - 1.75 meters for 90" wide backing (we used a extra wide Thimbleberries Flannel Backing)

Getting Started:

Prewash and press all fabrics. The brushed cotton does fray slightly at the cut edges. If you do have a serger available, you might want to serge the cut edges prior to washing. Be sure to open up all the fabrics when placing them into the washing machine and not leave the fabrics folded.



The borders are cut on the lengthwise (parallel to the selvage) so you will be cutting strips that are approximately 2 meters long by the width of one border strip and approximately 1.85 meters by the width of the other border strip. It is important that the borders are cut from the fabric first.

First Border - Cut on the lengthwise grain:
Cut two (2) strips 63½ x 3½ inches
Cut two (2) strips 45½" x 3½"

Second Border - Cut on the lengthwise grain:
Cut two (2) strips 69½" x 5½"
Cut two (2) strips 51½" x 5½"

Set the borders strips to one side

Plain Blocks

You need a total of 17 Plain Blocks

From each of the 12 fabrics cut one (1) plain 9½" x 9½" squares.
Once these 12 squares have been cut - cut an additional five (5) squares from any 5 of the 12 fabrics. Place to one side

Four Patch

You need a total of fourteen (14) Four Patch Blocks - a total of fifty-six 5" x 5" squares

From each of the 12 fabrics cut - four (4) 5" x 5" squares
Once these 48 squares have been cut - cut an additional eight (8) squares from 5 of the 12 fabrics. Place to one side

Corner Blocks

Each border has a corner block - decide which fabric will be your corner blocks in each border. The cut the following:

For the first border - cut 4 - 3 ½" x 3 ½" squares
Fro the second border - cut 4 - 5 ½" x 5 ½" squares

Maple Leaf Block

Each maple leaf block is made from two different fabrics - one fabric for the leaf and one for the background. Decide for each maple leaf block which fabrics you wish to use. Next for each maple leaf block - cut the following:

1 - 3 ½" background square
3 - 3 7/8" background squares
2 - 2" background squares
2 - 3 ½" leaf squares
3 - 3 7/8" leave squares

Making the Four Patch Blocks

The Four Patch Blocks are made by stitching two blocks together to make one unit. This unit is then joined together with a second unit to make one block.

Select two (2) 5" x 5" squares that are of a different pattern. Place the squares right sides together, matching raw edges. Stitch the squares together using a ¼" seam. Press the seam allowance to one side. Continue making units of two blocks making sure that the blocks contain a variety of fabrics. You do not want to attach two blocks together that are of the same colour and/or pattern. Lay your completed two-blocks units out on a large table or work space, placing two units together to make a four-patch block. I like to lay all the blocks out to make sure I have a "scrappy" combination and try as much as possible to have a variety of prints and colors in each block. To make the four-patch, place one complete 2-patch unit in front of you. Place a second complete two-patch unit on top of the unit in front of you, right sides and raw edges together. Stitch one side using a ¼" seam. You want to make sure that in the center of the block, the seam allowances are laid in opposite directions. This results in the seams "nesting" together and reduces the bulk in the center of the block. Open the complete block and press seam allowance to one side.

Continue piecing the four-patch blocks until you have a total of 14 complete four-patch blocks. Set aside

Making the Maple Leaf Blocks

For One Block

Two make the half triangle units:

Using a marking pencil, draw a diagonal line running from corner to corner on one (1) of the 3 7/8" background squares. Place one 3 7/8" background square on one (1) 3 7/8" leaf square, right sides together. Next, using a ¼" seam; sew along each side of the diagonal line you drew. If you do not have a ¼" foot available on your machine, draw another line ¼" on either side of the diagonal line. This will be your stitching line. Repeat with the two remaining background and leaf squares. Cut diagonally down the center of each block with your rotary cutter along the line you first marked. Open each cut unit and press. You will now have 6 half-triangle units that will be used to form the maple leaf block.

Making the Stem

To make the stem section, you will use one (1) 3½" leaf block and two (2) 2" background blocks. Position one 2" background block in the lower left-hand side of the leaf block. Draw a diagonal line on the 2" square running from corner to corner. This time - this line is your stitching line. Stitch the 2" square in place. Trim the seam allowance on the right-hand side to ¼" and press. Next taking the second 2" background square, place this square in the upper right hand side of the same block. Draw a diagonal line and stitch in place. Trim the seam allowance on the left hand side to ¼" and press. You are now ready to put one maple leaf block together

Putting the block together:

Lay the maple leaf block out on a table in front of you using the maple leaf pattern guide included in the purchased pattern. The block will go as follows:

Plain background square - half triangle block - half triangle block
Half triangle block - plain leaf square - half triangle block
Half triangle block - half triangle block - stem square

Sew each row together one block at a time, pressing seam allowances to one side. Once each of the rows have been joined, stitch row one to row two - press Then stitch the complete row one and two to row three

Repeat using different fabrics and backgrounds until you have four complete leaf blocks. Set aside

Putting It All Together:

Using the picture of the complete quilt as a guide, lay the quilt blocks on the floor or design wall. Each row contains plain and four-patch blocks opposite each other. You want to achieve a "scrappy" feel to the quilt. Move around blocks until you arrive at a combination and placement that you like. Sew each row of blocks together using a ¼" seam. Press seam allowance in opposite directions for each row. Once all the rows are pieced, beginning at the top or bottom, joining each complete row to the row above and/or below. Press seam allowances to one side.

Adding Borders

First Border

Sew one (1) 3½" corner block on each end of the 63½" x 3½" border strips

Pin the 45½" x 3½" border strip on the upper edge of the quilt. Pin along the length and stitch. Press seam allowances towards the border. Repeat with the lower edge of the quilt.

Pin and stitch the remaining two border strips (the ones you have just added the corner blocks to) to the quilt, matching seam-lines at the corners. Press seam allowance towards the border.

Second Border

Repeat the above instructions, this time using the corner blocks and border strips for the second border. Press seam allowances towards the border:

Finishing Up

Using a method of you choice, arrange and baste the backing, batting and complete quilt top together. Quilt as desired. Our quilt has an oak leaf design in the larger blocks and leaves in the smaller blocks. The maple leaf blocks were quilted to give the impression of the leave stem and vanes. The border was quilted with a continuous leaf design. You can also stitch in the ditch or do many other free motion designs. Have fun!

Trim away excess backing and batting once the quilting is complete. Cut a scrappy binding for the quilt.

Attach your precut strips of binding together with diagonal seams to form a strip of binding long enough to go around the complete outside of the bunny block and borders. To make a French Binding, fold the strip in half lengthwise with the wrong side of the fabric on the inside and iron. Using a ¼" seam, attach the binding by placing the binding strip and quilt raw edges together. When you come to a corner do the following:

Stop ¼ " from the corner
Remove the quilt from the sewing machine presser foot
Fold the binding strip up away from the quilt and you making a diagonal fold
Then holding this newly created diagonal fold in place with your finger, bring the binding down so the binding raw edges now align with the next side that you will be sewing on. Continue around the quilt.

Fold binding to the backside covering the raw edges and hand or machine stitch in place.


Last modified: 14:00:45 Thu, Aug 9 2007