Pin Sash Wall Hanging

Pin Sash Wall-Hanging
by Lisa Thiessen

I don't know about you, but I've been quilting long enough to acquire quite a number of decorative pins relating to quilting. I had been having trouble keeping track of them all and was afraid I'd lose one, so I designed this little wallhanging to pin them to. This way, they make a nice display in my sewing room - and they're easy to find if I want to wear one! The wallhanging is simple, but the paper-pieced block is a little bit challenging. There are three sub units that need to be constructed separately, then put together. You should trim all seam allowances to 1/8" as you go, to avoid bulk. If you think that your pin collection will exceed the space allowed here, you can make the top as long as you like! I based my block design and colors on my sewing machine, but you can adjust the colours to suit your own tastes or décor.

Wall-Hanging:

6" X 8" Wall Hanging

For each wall hanging you will need:

Sewing machine: scraps of your machine color of choice, including a contrast strip for stripe and small piece of black for needle shaft.

Spool and thread: A scrap of a small scale stripe fabric for thread, small scraps to fit the spool ends.

Background: 1/4m includes enough for backing as well. Cut one 6 ½" X 8 ½" rectangle (if you want this to be the backing) before you start constructing the block.

Filler: One 6 ½" X 8 ½" rectangle flannel, light in color to avoid shadowing through on your light fabrics.

Hanging sleeve: One 2 ½" X 6" rectangle

Click Here for Printable Paper Piece Pattern

How to Paper Piece:

Paper piecing is a technique for piecing your quilting blocks together. It is a very accurate way to piece. A pattern printed on paper is used as a guide and the fabric is placed on the back of the paper. All the stitching is done from the paper side, following the printed lines. Paper piecing is often done on a fine paper (like a tracing paper) that is easy to remove after the piecing is complete. When paper piecing be sure to change your sewing machine needle to a larger size and adjust your stitch length to a short stitch. You should be stitching around 20 stitches per inch.

Locate the number "1" on your paper piece pattern cut a square of fabric at least ½" larger than the section in which the number "1" is located in. Pin this fabric on the back of the paper, covering the complete number "1" section. The wrong side of the fabric should be directly up against the paper. Hold the pattern up to the light to be sure the number "1" section is completely covered by the fabric and there is an at least an extra ½" around all edges for the seam allowance. Next, take the fabric that will become the fabric for section "2". Line this fabric up with the raw edge from number "1" so that when stitched, fabric "2" will be folded over the number "2" section. Turn the pattern over to the paper side, keeping the fabrics in place and stitch on the line between sections "1" and "2". Fold the paper pattern back and trim away excess fabric leaving a ¼" seam. Iron or finger press the seam. Some notions that work great for paper piecing are the: Add-a-Quarter Ruler, wooden iron and the Clover Mini Iron.

Paper Piecing might seem a bit confusing at first because it feels like you are working opposite to how you should with the fabric on the bottom and stitching on the paper. After the initial piece of fabric has been pinned in place, right side up and on the back of the paper pattern, all remaining pieces are stitched with the fabric right sides together. After the fabrics have been lined up, and you have checked the pattern by holding it up to the light to ensure the stitching line is covered, the pattern is flipped to the top and stitched on the line. Continue working through the block number by number until the block is complete.

Construct the Sewing Machine Block:

Beginning with Unit A:

Place background color for piece 1 right side out on unprinted side of pattern. Ensure that piece is large enough to cover at least ¼" past all seam lines on pattern. Place black scrap for piece 2 right sides together with piece 1. Make sure that once the seam is sewn, the black scrap will cover all of piece 2 on pattern, overlapping all seam allowances by ¼". Sew seamline one/two starting a little before the line and continuing a little after. Use a short stitch. Trim seam allowance to 1/8".

Finger press piece open.

Continue adding pieces of fabric as follows:

Piece 3 - background
Piece 4 - sewing machine
Piece 5 - background
Piece 6 - sewing machine
Piece 7 - sewing machine
Piece 8 - contrast strip
Piece 9 - sewing machine
Piece 10 - background
Piece 11 - background

Do not trim outer edges of block sub unit at this time.

Construct Unit B:

Piece 1 - background
Piece 2 - stripe
Piece 3 - background
Piece 4 - spool end
Piece 5 - spool end
Piece 6 - background
Piece 7 - background
Piece 8 - background

Do not trim outer edges of block sub unit at this time.

Construct Unit C:

Piece 1 - background
Piece 2 - sewing machine
Piece 3 - background
Piece 4 - background

Do not trim outer edges of block sub unit at this time.

Putting it all together -

Place unit A and unit B right sides together, matching seamlines between the units. Pin to make sure that pieces do not shift during sewing. Sew seamline A/B. Look on both sides of seam to make sure that stitching is directly on the seamline on both sub units. Trim seam allowance to 1/8". Press seam toward unit A.

Place unit C and unit A/B right sides together, again carefully matching seamline. Pin in place and sew along seamline A/C. Once again, check to make sure that the stitching goes right through the seamline of both sub units. Trim seam allowance to 1/8". Press seam allowance toward unit C.

Cut a 6 ½" X 2 ½" rectangle from your background fabric. Using a ¼" seam allowance, sew rectangle to top of sewing machine block. Press seam toward rectangle. You've completed the wallhanging top!

Cut a 6 ½" X 8 ½" rectangle from background fabric (or your choice of backing fabric). Place backing right sides together with wallhanging top. Place layer of flannel on top of the backing. Stitch around all 4 sides of wallhanging, backstitch at beginning and end, leaving an opening for turning. Turn wallhanging to right side. Make sure that all the edges and corners are turned all the way out. Slipstitch opening closed. Topstitch around all outside edges. Quilt through all layers to hold them together. You can just 'stitch in the ditch' around the sewing machine block with some parallel lines through the background if you like. This piece does not have to be quilted heavily. Press short edges of hanging sleeve under ¼" and stitch in place. Press long edges under ¼". Place hanging sleeve on the back of the wallhanging at the top. Pin long edges and slipstitch in place.

You can hang this little quilt on your wall - or, if you have an extra special quilt function to go to, you can pin it on - and wear all your pins at once without poking a lot of holes in your clothes!

Thanks Lisa for the great project!
Enjoy!


Last modified: 14:01:40 Thu, Aug 9 2007